The Daily Herald

Touch of elegance: Surprise ingredients boost simple eatery

JESSICA EYRE - Daily Herald | Posted: Wednesday, January 4, 2006 11:00 pm

The fast-casual restaurant is taking the dining industry by storm. For professional lunches to first dates, these eateries -- wedged between fast food and traditional restaurants -- have a lot to offer.

And new to Draper is the fast-casual Citris Grill.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by a server and seated at one of the small, sleek tables. The décor was minimal -- but by design. Yellow and green walls lead to a high ceiling with exposed ductwork and track lighting.

The menus followed suit with a minimalist design. Salads and wood-fired pizzas aren't named, but simply numbered, and nearly all menu items are priced at an even dollar amount.

While everything so far had been simple, it was warm, not stark. And when it comes to the food, diners shouldn't confuse "simple" with "nothing special."

Citris Grill, which offers each item in hearty or petite sizes, adds little touches in each entrée to make it different and tasty.

We started out with the Spinach & Artichoke Dip, which came with fresh corn tortilla chips, some of which were red and purple. The cup of dip was different than most others we've had at other establishments. Instead of chunks of artichoke hearts and strings of cheese and spinach, this dip was pureed to a nearly smooth consistency. Served warm, the dip is tangy and easier to eat because the cheese doesn't string off the chips.

When we ordered the Southwest Chicken Wrap, we knew it had smoked jalapeño sauce and pepper jack cheese on it. But we had no idea what we were getting into.

These two ingredients envelope chicken, avocado, tomatoes, corn and black bean salsa inside a tightly wrapped chipotle tortilla -- in fact, we were surprised at how well all the stuffing was contained.

Upon the first bite, however, we nearly dove for something to drink. And this isn't necessarily a bad thing. What could have been an ordinary chicken wrap became something to remember, just make sure you keep the refills coming.

While the wrap came with French fries, we also ordered a small Citris Salad. Once again, a few added touches really dressed up this dish. With peppers, corn and avocado over spring mix, the whole salad was tossed in the house dressing, cilantro lime vinaigrette. Normally we order dressing on the side, not wanting the lettuce swimming on the plate. But we were pleased with the light coating of tangy dressing that gave a kick to the crisp greens.

Normally for good ribs, you need to seek out a rib joint. Getting ribs just right is nearly an art form.

Well, Citris Grill chefs must be artists. The Slow Roasted Chipotle Baby Back Ribs are smothered in a spicy chipotle sauce, and the meat is so tender, after a clash between sauce and shirt, we picked up a fork and had no problem pulling the meat off the bones.

Other entrees include pizza, or perhaps try the Grilled Cheese of the Day. On the day of our visit, the special was Goat Cheese and Honey.

See what we meanfi Simple dishes that are really something special.

Citris Grill

Where: 219 E. 12300 South, Draper

Price range: $2.50-$19

Family call: Some surprise ingredients may turn off young picky diners

Info: (801) 572-0012