India yummer Great food, excellent atmosphere offer warm memories at India Palace

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If atmosphere can enhance the dining experience, India Palace is getting it right.

The restaurant has been spruced up a little since it changed hands and names (it used to be India Garden). We were greeted by a fully bearded man in an Indian turban. We passed glowing pictures of Indian palaces. And we listened to traditional Indian music as we perused the menu. All of which probably made our Indian food taste a little better.

Not that it needed any help. The gold standard of Indian cuisine in Provo has been the Bombay House on University Avenue. But the food at India Palace seemed to be on par, even at a few dollars cheaper.

Of course, we ate the Chicken Tikka Masala, boneless chicken pieces barbecued in a tandoor (cylindrical clay oven) and bathed in a cream and curry sauce. It was rich and spicy and it disappeared quickly. Ditto for the Shrimp Vandaloo (with potatoes, onions, tomatoes and vinegar).

The Chicken Tandoori also would have disappeared if the portion wasn't so large. Two drumsticks and two generous thighs are marinated in ginger, garlic and yogurt and served sizzling with sliced peppers, onions and carrots. Don't be fooled by the chicken's dry outward appearance (probably from the 800-degree tandoor oven). It's plenty juicy and flavorful.

India Palace also has a sizable vegetarian selection on the menu. We tried the Vegetable Coconut Korma, and the sweet coconut added a nice twist to the blend of garlic and curry. Most of the dishes have a deep orange color from the spices.

Diners choose whether the dishes are prepared mild, medium or hot. The "mild" was hotter than mild grocery store salsa, and the "medium" was plenty spicy. Choose "hot" at your own risk.

The service at India Palace was excellent. Our glasses were always full and our orders came quickly.

(By the way, here's something we've noticed: At many American -- especially chain -- restaurants, babies are treated as a nuisance. But at many Asian eateries, including India Palace, servers play with the baby and even offer treats from the kitchen. Quite nice when you can't get a sitter.)

During the meal, don't pass on the simple Naan breads that go so well with the thick, spicy food. And finish off the meal with rich mango ice cream, sprinkled with coconut. It actually tastes like real mangos, not some imitation flavor. There's always room for that kind of dessert.

Review

India Palace

Were: 98 W. Center St., Provo

Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner 4:30 p.m.-10 p.m., Monday-Saturday

Prices: $7.95-$14.95

Info: 373-7200

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