Food Review: Tandoori Grill dishes presented with a flair

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buy this photo ASHLEY FRANSCELL/Daily Herald The special at the Tandoori Grill is a steaming tandoori mixed grill at 465 S. University Avenue in Provo. Photo take Tuesday, August 12, 2008.

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  • Food Review: Tandoori Grill dishes presented with a flair
  • Food Review: Tandoori Grill dishes presented with a flair
  • Food Review: Tandoori Grill dishes presented with a flair

Now that an Indian restaurant has taken over the old Winger's diner on University Avenue in Provo, you can get a taste of the East with a touch of Americana.

Over the entrance to Tandoori Grill is some hip yellow lettering that reads "Diner," and the exterior boasts the polished chrome look popular in the '50s. But inside you'll find a heavy curry smell hanging in the air and a bank of televisions playing Indian music videos. The small, green booths weren't quite large enough to accommodate Indian meals that sometimes require multiple dishes.

What the restaurant lacks in Indian atmosphere it makes up for with Indian food. The menu is extensive, including several selections prepared in a tandoori oven. A tandoor is a clay oven that is superheated, sometimes to around 800 degrees. Our tandoori tikka, chicken cubes marinated in yogurt and cooked in the tandoor, arrived sizzling, tender and juicy.

Some of the most popular Indian dishes are offered as part of a buffet, about $9 for lunch and $12 for dinner. We liked the Beef Curry and the Chicken Tikka Masala. Indian dishes are thick with spices and rich flavors, and many are made with yogurt and cream flavored with curry. The dishes at Tandoori Grill also include cilantro as more than just a garnish.

Dishes we ordered from the menu were presented with flair. All are served with an empty plate so you can dish up your own combination of rice and meat. Our Chicken Makhni came in a copper bowl which our server placed in a sort of cradle over a tea light candle. Our Mango Chicken was in a decorative bowl with a fancy serving spoon and the lassi yogurt drinks are served in nice stemware.

Speaking of lassis, our Mango Lassi was more tart than others we've had, but this was a welcome change of pace. It was thick and flavorful.

Diners can choose how much they want in their dishes -- our mild was plenty mild and our medium was hot enough to make you notice. A mouthful of the unleavened Naan bread (very tasty) is enough to help you cool down, and the bread is useful also for dipping in leftover sauces.

Leftovers are something you're almost sure to have, as the portions at Tandoori Grill are larger than what most people would eat in one sitting. Too bad you can't take the fancy bowls and candle apparatus home, too.

Tandoori Grill

Where: 465 S. University Ave., Provo

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Prices: $2-$14

Info: 769-8850

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