“It’s like the love child of a crescent roll and brioche.”

Those were my friend’s words as we sat outside Hruska’s Kolaches in downtown Provo. She was describing the bread at the new bakery, and the assessment was pretty accurate.

If you’ve never had a Kolach, we recommend it. It’s a Czech/Slovak pastry with an exposed fruit filling and buttery bread. Hruska’s also serves savory pastries in case you want something more hearty. The folks who run Hruska’s are actually from Texas, but they have Czech roots, and opened the bakery’s new location (434 W. Center St.) on April 1. No April Fool’s trick here, though. Just a wide range of tasty pastries.

Hruska’s closes shop each day once their pastries sell out. Be aware that this happens fairly early. We got there at just after noon and most of the Kolaches were gone. Luckily, there were still enough options for the four of us to each get a sweet and savory Kolach. Here’s how it went.

As for the savory pastries, our favorites were the Sausage and Gravy, and the Asparagus, Mushroom and Sun Dried Tomato. The Sausage and Gravy Kolache didn’t skimp on the meat, and paid worthy homage to biscuits and gravy. As for the Asparagus, Mushroom and Sun Dried Tomato, it was a bit different than the other ones we got, but not necessarily in a bad way. It also had feta cheese on it, if you’re into that sort of thing.

I ordered the Sweet Potato Walnut Hash Kolach, thinking it might be on the savory side. I’m not sure why I thought this, because sweet potatoes are … well … sweet. No matter, though. This one was a bit sweet, though tamer than the fruit Kolaches. I really liked this one — it wasn’t quite like the other sweet pastries, but not like the savory ones either.

A lot of the fruit Kolaches come with a standard filling — just the fruit — or a mix of fruit and sweet cream cheese. There are also ones with just the cream cheese, and we got one of those as well. They were all good, but the fruit/cream cheese mix was my favorite. I opted for the Peaches and Cream Cheese Kolach and was not disappointed.

In the end, though, it all goes back to that delicious bread. We asked one of the owners what his secret was, and he said it was butter. Lots and lots of butter. Fair enough.

These buttery Kolaches are inexpensive — each one is around $2 — so the monetary risk here is minimal. Their pastries are a bit different than what you’ll find elsewhere in Utah County, and perhaps that’s reason enough to give Hruska’s a try. If you’ve ever wondered what a crescent roll/brioche lovechild tastes like, you know where to go.

Daily Herald features reporter Court Mann can be reached at (801) 344-2930 or cmann@heraldextra.com. Twitter: @TheCourtMann

Court Mann covers music, the arts and features for the Daily Herald.

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