Rio de Janeiro has that effect on you. It’s not just the raw natural beauty–though the cinematic rainforest mountains kissing golden beaches is enough to leave you gobsmacked. It’s the vibrant energy, the easy rhythm of life, and the warm welcome from locals who live like they’re in on some wonderful secret.

That secret is Ipanema, nestled in Rio’s superb South Zone, which doubles as the most relaxing and beautiful urban beach in the world. Make no mistake: It’s definitely not the poshest. But it’s undeniably the most iconic, distinctly beautiful, and endearing beach I’ve ever visited on all seven continents.

Bold claim, I know. Spend a day here, though, and I’m convinced you’ll agree.

This is Brazil, but not the one you know

Unlike the flashy carnival version of Rio that often gets exported, Ipanema is surprisingly calm, safe, and–refreshingly–low on foreign tourists. In fact, my family heard very little English during our stay. But that’s part of the magic. You don’t visit Ipanema to be treated like a guest. You come to live like the locals do: slowly, sweetly–with saltwater in your hair and Havaianas on your feet.

Even with the language barrier, you can navigate Brazil just fine using Google Translate. That’s partly because people here are kind without being pushy. Even beach vendors smile and say “boa tarde” if you decline. Better yet, tourist price gouging rarely happens. You pay what locals do. That goes for incredibly affordable food, souvenirs, and all-day beach chairs and umbrellas for a whopping $7 total. No hassle, no hustle–just good vibes.

Days on the beach, nights on the street

During our stay, my family rented a charming Airbnb in eastern Ipanema near “Posto 8” and were within walking distance to five world-class beaches: Ipanema (5 minutes), Copacabana (10 minutes), Arpoador (10 minutes), Leblon (20 minutes), and Leme (40 minutes). Each has its own energy and is accessed from Rio’s iconic black and white stone sidewalks. But Ipanema was our favorite. Electric but laid-back. Although not as bustling as Copacabana, Ipanema is the best-looking of the lot, with Vidigal “favela” in the background clinging to life on the side of the mountains.

After sunset, the energy shifts inland. Rua Visconde de Pirajá comes alive with cafes, açaí bars, street vendors, grocers, boutiques, and late-night snack stops. Just a block away, Rua Barão da Torre provides a peaceful residential stretch, perfect for quiet evening strolls under giant banyan trees and filled with fine dining restaurants. In between both streets is a criss-cross network of all of the above, much of it highly-rated, incredibly charming, and delightfully affordable.

Tastes like nowhere else

Brazilian street and beach food is a revelation. Inexpensive, inventive, and full of flavor. We fell in love with made-to-order grilled cheese sticks, fresh corn with butter and oregano, coconut tapioca cakes (“cuscuz”), fried pastels and doughy coxinhas, freshly squeezed sugar cane juice with lime, plus açaí bowls so good they might ruin the ones you enjoy back home.

Even everyday snacks and fresh baked goods from local grocers became highlights. Mangoes, “brigadeiro” chocolate balls, Biscoito Globo cookies, French bread, “rosquinha” cookies made with coconut, banana-cinnamon, or vanilla, and the mysterious atemoya fruit–a pear-pineapple hybrid that tastes like a tropical dream. For sit-down dining, Casa do Chef Jota quickly became our favorite, so much so we ate chef Jose’s homecooked, gourmet, but still-affordable meals for three consecutive days. Had there been more time, we would have eaten there even more.

Mountains, markets, miracles

No trip to Rio is complete without a visit to the famous mountain-top statue of Cristo Redentor, one of Seven Wonders of The World that overlooks this incredible city that marries beaches with mountains, rich with poor, and Latin America with Portuguese (instead of “Hispanic” Spanish, which you can definitely feel when visiting). I’d also recommend Sugarloaf Mountain, the colorful Selarón staircases, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Portuguese library, and Maracanã stadium.

But on this, my family’s second visit to Rio in three years (we like it that much), we followed Ipanema’s lead and slowed down our sightseeing. We laid on the beach for several days. We picnicked in Parque Lage, which sits in the shadow of Cristo Redentor. We frequented farmer’s markets, went to church, and relished a stunning sunset sailing with Get Your Guide. But the brightest highlight was a guided climb to the top of Dois Irmãos, which starts with a thrilling moto-taxi ride through Vidigal favela before entering a rainforest trail and finishing with what my wife called, “The best view of my entire life.”

Come confident, leave changed

“I could live here,” my daughter said only two days into our visit. “It’s great for tourists but isn’t touristy,” said another. That matters because Ipanema lets you enjoy the local culture that much more.

Not that Rio is for everyone. If you want to be waited on hand and foot, don’t like interacting with non-English speakers, or feel more comfortable with lots of hand-holding while traveling, Rio might not be the best fit. But I can’t imagine anyone not falling in love with the incredible city if visiting with an open mind.

As my family reluctantly boarded our return flight one golden evening, hearts full and phones filled with photos, I felt sentimental saudades–that Portuguese word for deep longing. You see, Rio in general and Ipanema specifically is one of those rare places you don’t just visit. You feel it.

And it stays with you.

Blake Snow contributes to fancy publications and Fortune 500 companies as a bodacious writer-for-hire and seasoned travel journalist to all seven continents. He lives in Provo, Utah with his wife, five children, and one ferocious chihuahua.