If “Keep it simple, stupid” is a sound strategy, then Quiznos is being demoted to the dummy class. Quiznos’ menu looks like the Manhattan phone book, with more options than the Green Bay Packers’ playbook.

So let’s spin the Wheel of Fortune and pick one of the 25 newbies to review this week. Lookee there, it’s the Meatball Sub, a staple of the sub trade — which is ironic, because Quiznos booted its Meatball Sub off the menu a few years ago. Revenge is sweet … and savory.

Here’s the Meatball Sub blueprint: Italian meatballs, all-natural mozzarella cheese, Italian 3-cheese blend and rich marinara sauce on your choice of artisan bread, including whole-grain flatbread, white, wheat, rosemary Parmesan and garlic focaccia.

The obvious choice is garlic focaccia. I would eat a gunpowder sandwich if it were made with garlic focaccia around it. Or, even worse, a veggie burger.

Total calories for an 11-inch large Meatball Sub: 1,250. Fat grams: 72. Sodium: 2,840 mg. Carbs: 104 g. Dietary fiber: 11 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $7.99.

You can get a 5-inch small version for $4.99, and an 8-inch medium for $6.49. Obviously, large is your best bargain. You can save some for dinner. Yeah, right … dinner. I know you. The whole thing will be gone by the time you get back to the office.

Times have been tough in recent years for Quiznos, the “Mmmmm … toasty” sub shop. About 1,000 restaurants closed nationwide, and the chain’s momentum seemed to go “pffft.” Now Quiznos has new ownership, new energy and a new menu. Adding 25 new permanent items at once is the biggest rollout I can remember in the drive-thru lane. Quiznos has new grilled flatbread sandwiches, sliders, wraps and kids’ stuff. This makes Burger King’s introduction of 10 items seem like a passing thought.

Some of Quiznos’ new items are the same old same old with a new bow on them, like the California Chicken Wrap. It’s just a different combination of standard-fare ingredients. But some of the new items seem pretty inspired. I’ll be back for the Triple Cheese Melt, Prime Rib Philly, Chicken Milano and French Dip.

But today we’re focusing on the Meatball Sub. While it’s troubling to hear a sub shop brag about its “new” meatball sub (that’d be like Best Buy advertising a “new” AM radio), let’s see if Quiznos’ Meatball Sub delivers the goods.

There were nine golf-ball-size meatballs in my large sub on garlic focaccia. The meatballs were firm and flavorful. I’m guessing there’s Italian breadcrumbs or seasoning in there. The sauce was a little sweet — also good. The cheese was thoroughly melted and bubbly. Like other sub shops, Quiznos plays it safe and takes its sandwiches out of the chain-link oven a little early, before the bread gets charred on the top and bottom. I always ask them to run my sandwich through a second time. Sure, I get weird looks, but I can handle the heat.

I was totally happy and satisfied with my Quiznos’ Meatball Sub. It’s meaty and big and tasty and messy. That’s the Grand Slam of subs. It’s also completely over the top for calories, fat, carbs and sodium. I didn’t check the niacin content, but I’m guessing that’s a red-liner, too.

The most important hump for this sandwich to rise above is price. Is this sandwich at $7.99 a better bottom-line value than the $5 Meatball Footlong at Subway? If you have extra jingle in your pocket, the answer is yes. If you’re bargain shopping, like everybody else these days, stay underground in the Subway.