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Drive-Thru gourmet: Pizza Hut dives into the sandwich business

By Ken Hoffman - | Jun 21, 2012

This week I reached out for an Italian Steak P’Zolo, one of three new sandwiches from the world’s No. 1 pizza chain, Pizza Hut, with 6,000 restaurants in the U.S. and 5,600 more in 94 countries spanning the globe.

I thought 94 countries sounded pretty high, until I saw that 205 countries will compete in the Olympics in London this summer. Pizza Hut, you’re not even halfway home in global domination. Eritrea, Kyrgyzstan and Sao Tome and Principe need Meat Lover’s Pizza!

I just realized that I’m not familiar with any country that’s not on the Risk game board.

Here’s the Italian Steak P’Zolo blueprint: marinated steak pieces, roasted peppers, onions and mushrooms tucked inside pizza dough. Served with your choice of marinara or ranch dipping sauce.

Ranch will be the popular pick. Americans won’t be happy until they can order a big bowl of ranch sauce topped with ranch sauce, served with a side of ranch sauce.

Total calories: 470. Fat grams: 16. Sodium: 1,070 mg. Dietary fiber: 2 g. Carbs: 61 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $3 … or two P’Zolos for $5.

The other P’Zolos are: Meat Trio, with Italian sausage, pepperoni and ham, topped with Asiago cheese. Buffalo Chicken: tender grilled chicken-breast strips and lots of spicy Buffalo sauce, topped with Asiago cheese. Feel free to mix and match ’em.

That $5-for-two bundle is not a coincidence. Pizza Hut is diving headfirst into the sandwich business, and its No. 1 target is Subway and the mighty $5 footlong. Pizza Hut is not playing coy. Its commercials are full of scrappy lines like, “See ya, subs,” and “Say ‘so long’ to the footlong.”

I don’t know if it’s smart to tackle the biggest fast-food chain around. Maybe Pizza Hut should have considered battling a chain of gourmet cupcake stores first. I don’t see that lasting crazy long. They put too much icing on $4 cupcakes.

First we’ll list P’Zolo’s positives, because I’m an optimist, a happy-go-lucky guy with bad eating habits:

The P’Zolo tastes pretty darn good, and if you take the bait, two for $5 will hold you till dinner. What’s not to like here? Just as a Pizza Hut P’Zone is really a calzone, or a folded-over pizza, the P’Zolo is a small pizza rolled up like a cigar. Think of an Italian pizza eclair with cheese frosting. I’m getting woozy.

Pizza dough as bread is way better than a burger bun. Subway’s iconic fresh-baked bread is a tough act to beat, though. Score that one a draw.

Neither “P’Zone” nor “P’Zolo” is a real word. They’re just made-up fun … or Snoop Dogg is working in Pizza Hut’s naming department.

Here are the negatives, and none has anything to do with taste or value:

I just don’t think of Pizza Hut when I’m in the mood for a sandwich. That’s a big hurdle for the Hut. Pizza Hut sells … pizza. It’s on the sign. Subway sells … subs. It’s on the sign.

Pizza Hut is a slow sandwich. You order it and it takes them a while to bake it. And where will I wait? Most Pizza Huts don’t have dining rooms or a soda machine. They don’t have a bag of fries to hold me, either. Pizza Hut is a phone thing, and sandwiches aren’t a phone thing.

I prefer P’Zolos over Subway subs, and please don’t compare P’Zolos to Hot Pockets. But … Subway and Hot Pockets have the routine down pat. At Subway, you pick and point and choose, and two minutes later you’re eating your sandwich at a table with a cup of soda. With Pockets, you just throw them in the ‘wave for a couple of minutes, and you don’t miss a minute of the Maury show. “In the case of 2-year-old Bobby … Fred, you ARE the father!”

With P’Zolos, you’re waiting for the delivery person. Thirty minutes is forever when you’re hungry. And then there’s that unpleasant matter of tipping.

Starting at $4.32/week.

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