Drive-thru gourment: Now you can get your italian fix at Denny’s
This week I reached out for a plate of Brooklyn Spaghetti and Meatballs, part of the new “Tour of America” menu at America’s 24-hour diner, Denny’s, with 1,600 restaurants in North America … plus seven restaurants in — huh? — New Zealand. That’s weird. One would think maybe South America or Europe, or even Asia, would be next in the expansion plans.
Denny’s “Tour of America” menu boasts “craveable” regional favorites from across our amber waves of grain and purple mountain majesties. And Brooklyn.
Here’s the Brooklyn Spaghetti and Meatballs blueprint: three seasoned meatballs atop a bed of pasta in a rich, meaty tomato sauce. Served with a side of Parmesan cheese and garlic bread.
Garlic bread is like butter and bacon. Everything it touches tastes better.
Total calories: 1,220. Fat grams: 61. Sodium: 2,460 mg. Dietary fiber: 7 g. Carbs: 108 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $8.69. Your mileage may vary.
Whoa, nice nutritionals. You might want to consider leaving through the double doors. Unless you’re bulking up for sumo season, I can’t think of one diet that Brooklyn Spaghetti and Meatballs doesn’t obliterate.
But around here, we fuggeddaboutit. We’re concerned with flavor and value. We’ll worry about fitness and health the other six days of the week
If you’re a spaghetti-and-meatballs person, you’re in for a little surprise at Denny’s. While Brooklyn Spaghetti and Meatballs won’t make you forget your local Italian restaurant, it’s a clear upgrade over the pizza-delivery entrees. And please don’t compare it to your canned-spaghetti memories from after school. I ate enough Franco-American spaghetti to cause wheat and tin-can shortages.
Brooklyn Spaghetti and Meatballs comes with three good-size meatballs, about the size of a baby’s fist. The meatballs are firm but tender, with just a little Italian-seasoning kick. I like mine with lots of Parmesan cheese on top. Great, the cheese comes on the side. You don’t have to lean back while a waiter hovers over your plate with a cheese grater.
The spaghetti is firm, too, not mushy like from a can or from sitting on a buffet for hours. The sauce is mild. I like mine with added red pepper, but no major complaint.
The garlic bread is … garlic bread. It’s hard to wreck garlic bread. It’s good stuff, nice and thick, with a strong garlic wallop. If this is a first date, you might want to consider a firm handshake goodnight. You should have ordered the pot roast.
Brooklyn Spaghetti and Meatballs is what Denny’s does best. It’s a lot of food for a fair price, served hot in a clean, pleasant setting, with the bonus of great people-watching. At 3 a.m., Denny’s is way more entertaining than “Anderson Cooper” repeats on CNN or “The Andy Griffith Show” reruns on Channel 297. Cooper and Barney Fife make the same amount of sense after midnight.