Domino’s tried — and failed — with Pan Pizza in 1986 (too long to bake, remember the 30-minute delivery promise?) and 1997 (too labor-intensive), but this time Domino’s has it right. Try, try … and try again. Domino’s is so confident this try that Pan Pizza goes directly on the permanent menu. That’s where three years of test marketing will get you.

Pan Pizza is worth a try. Pizza Hut invented the Chicago-style Pan Pizza, and now Pan Pizza accounts for 20 percent of its sales. Call Pan Pizza “Chicago-style light.” It’s baked in a pan like Chicago-style, but it’s not as deep or piled as high with everything but the kitchen sink.

Here’s the Domino’s Pan Pizza blueprint: a special buttery, never-frozen, thick crust that’s hand-stretched and slapped into a pan, covered with sauce, two layers of cheese and whatever toppings your heart desires — all spread to the very edge, so there’s no plain crust that serves as a handle.

That’s good, because you get more of the good stuff. But it’s bad because you’ve run out of napkins and your hands look like you’ve been finger-painting.

Also, Pan Pizza doesn’t have that garlic-butter spread that Domino’s paints on the crust of other pizzas. Some people don’t like that glistening garlic spread. I do.

Total calories per slice: 302. Fat grams: 16. Sodium: 539 mg. Dietary fiber: 1 g. Protein: 10 g. Carbs: 28 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $7.99 for a medium 12-inch Pan Pizza with two toppings. The smart play is pepperoni and fill-in-the-blank. The $7.99 tab is for a limited time only. So jump on it.

Domino’s is making a big deal out of using fresh, hand-stretched dough — not frozen pizza shells, like some inferior pizza-delivery joints.

Domino’s has 16 factories spread across the country that make its dough and ship it to local restaurants — not 30-minutes fast, but fast. Don’t text while you drive, either.

Pan Pizza is another attempt by Domino’s to be all things to all pizza people. Add Pan Pizza to Artisan Pizzas, American Legend Pizzas, Pastas, Sandwiches, Chicken Wings and Bread. And, oh yeah, regular pizza.

The Pan Pizza fuss even extends to a new, special box — it’s a threatening shade of deep black. You listening, Pizza Hut?

So the big question is, How does Domino’s Pan Pizza stand up to industry leader Pizza Hut’s Pan Pizza? I’ve eaten a ton of Pan Pizza and … honestly, I can’t tell the difference. Which, if you’re Domino’s, is the whole point.