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Hint of Hawaii: L&L Barbecue offers taste of island fare

By Doug Fox - Daily Herald - | Apr 11, 2013

With the typically warmer weather of spring trying to gain control of local temperatures, intermittently gaining the upper hand over periodic rain and a chill in the breeze, we decided to give L&L Hawaiian Barbecue in Provo a visit.

L&L got its start in Hawaii, but began franchising in the mainland U.S. in 1999. Today, there are currently almost 200 restaurants, most of them sprinkled throughout the West.

We stopped by L&L on a recent Saturday afternoon. Things were pretty quiet inside the restaurant, save for the sound of Hawaiian music playing over the loudspeakers. The dining room featured seating for 45 or so, with a few tables outside for when the weather is really nice.

Patrons order at the counter, and as we perused the menu, we asked the cashier for some recommendations. She zeroed right in on the Chicken Katsu as her main suggestion, so we made sure to order that along with several other selections.

L&L is known for its plate lunches. Basically you pick one of the main entree items and it comes with two scoops of rice and one scoop of macaroni salad. A somewhat less expensive mini version comes with one scoop of rice along with the entree and macaroni salad. The full plate lunches are definitely filling and run from $8.95 to $10.25.

The cashier definitely pointed us in the right direction with the Chicken Katsu, as this was the favorite item we sampled. Chicken Katsu is boneless chicken, breaded and fried, and cut into strips. This dish came with some sweet-yet-tangy dipping sauce that made everything better. In fact, the perfect combination contained a forkful of chicken and rice smothered with the sauce.

We also sampled the Hawaiian BBQ Mix plate. The BBQ mix features thin-sliced beef, chicken and short ribs. The meat was good, but the short ribs were a bit tough. One frustration we had was trying to cut them — and some of the other meats as well — with the plastic utensils and plastic foam containers. It wasn’t easy and was kind of messy.

Another dish we enjoyed was the Fried Mahi Mahi. The fish was breaded and fried to near perfection, giving it a slightly crispy exterior, and the house tartar sauce was an excellent accompaniment.

We also tried the BBQ Chicken Rice Bowl, which also included broccoli and a few pea pods. It was pretty standard and was also improved by pouring on some of the dipping sauce.

One item that absolutely nobody in our party cared for was the macaroni salad. Perhaps it is an acquired cultural taste, but we found it to be quite bland and lacking in flavor to our palates. Since it is a standard add-on to the plate lunches, it might be a detriment to our ordering one of those again unless we could substitute something else for the macaroni salad.

There are many other options at L&L, including pork, shrimp, spam, sandwiches of some variety — and even American staples like hamburgers and fries. Drinks — which are not included in the plate lunch combo meals — include canned Hawaiian Sun beverages of various flavors and a fountain with typical soft drink options.

The interior of the restaurant features bright colors (think orange, yellow and red), a beached surfboard and some interesting artwork by Utah expressionist Selu Alofipo, which tended to fit the Hawaiian vibe.

L&L Hawaiian Barbecue

Where: 158 W. 1230 North, Provo

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday

Prices: $1-$14

Info: (801) 818-2888, hawaiianbarbecue.com

Starting at $4.32/week.

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