For purposes of review, I phoned for a large pepperoni, the Hut’s most popular topping. When I’m off-duty, I’m strictly a sausage-and-mushrooms guy. But I sacrifice for my craft.

Here’s the blueprint: a new, lighter and airier crust topped with pizza sauce, “real cheese made with mozzarella” (sounds like lawyers got hold of the wording), tomato sauce and pepperoni, plus a brush of garlic-butter spread on the crust.

Total calories: 310 (per slice of a large, 14-inch pie). Fat grams: 13. Sodium: 800 mg. Carbs: 34 g. Dietary fiber: 1 g. Protein: 13 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $10.

When the world’s No. 1 pizza maker, Pizza Hut, totally reworks its No. 1 seller, Hand-Tossed Crust, that’s a pizza revolution. One might muse: Why would Pizza Hut mess with something that obviously ain’t broken? Let me know when McDonald’s starts putting a slice of tofu on its Big Mac.

Maybe Pizza Hut should think about improving one of its other, less-popular pizzas — say, Pan Pizza. Maybe they could cut back on the grease so when I’m finished eating, my shirt doesn’t look like I spent the day working at Jiffy Lube.

The new Hand-Tossed crust is lighter, with pockets of air. Don’t get your hopes up — they don’t pop like bubble wrap. The crust is a little sweeter, too. I’m OK with everything so far.

Pizza Hut now brushes the outer edge of the crust with a garlic-butter spread. Wow, that’s never been done before … except when Domino’s started doing it in 2009. Pizza Hut following Dominos’ lead is like Meryl Streep studying Kim Kardashian’s performance in “Tyler Perry’s Temptation: Confessions of a Marriage Counselor.” (Yes, that was a real movie.)

Pizza Hut’s new Hand-Tossed pizzas look different, too. In Pizza Hut’s biggest retraining program ever, pie makers were told it’s OK to be a little creative. So now you’ll find some stray pieces of cheese running for their lives on the outer crust. Those bits are little gems, because they crisp up in the oven and add texture to the pizza. Each pizza is now one of a kind. They should sign them, like “423/999.” I have a lithograph like that. I wonder how many “423/999’s” there are, though.

So now each pizza is different. I don’t know if that’s smart. One of the best things about fast food is sameness, which is another word for dependability. It’s comforting to know that no matter where you are in the world, you can walk into a Burger King, and that Whopper is going to taste exactly like a Whopper back home. Sameness can be a good thing, when it’s food you’re talking about.

Pizza Hut’s new Hand-Tossed pizzas come with a guarantee: If you don’t like this one, the “next one is on us.” Fool me twice, shame on Pizza Hut. Hit me again, except this time … harder.