Last year was big for Wendy’s. The square-burger chain created a nationwide fast-food frenzy by introducing pretzel buns. They looked different and tasted different, and Wendy’s threw the kitchen sink at pretzel buns: If it fit between two slices of bread, it went on a pretzel bun. A few months later, Wendy’s was back, serving burgers and chicken on a buttery, French-style brioche bun. Brioche caused a stir, and that bread made a lot of bread, too. Wendy’s had a very nice balance sheet at the end of 2013.

Now Wendy’s is going to the bread well again, and coming up ciabatta. The new slogan is “Gotta ciabatta,” and I gotta tell you … another winner. It’s worth the carbs, my Atkins army warriors.

Here’s the Ciabatta Bacon Cheeseburger blueprint: a 1/4-pound beef patty, roasted chopped tomatoes, creamy rosemary-garlic aioli, fresh spring mix, a slice of asiago cheese and applewood-smoked bacon on a toasted ciabatta bun. Stop me when I say something that doesn’t sound delicious.

Total calories: 670. Fat grams: 39. Sodium: 1,260 mg. Dietary fiber: 4 g. Carbs: 42 g. Protein 32 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $4.79.

That’s getting up there — $4.79 for a single-patty burger. By the time you’re done, with fries and a drink, you’re nudging the $8 parallel. And once you cross that, there’s no turning back.

So it’s a bellyful costing a walletful. But we’re about the bottom line here: How does it taste, and is it worth the big bucks? Tastes great, and more filling.

Ciabatta is a light, airy bread with tiny air pockets to catch the beef runoff and whatever else is on your burger. It’s a terrific sandwich bread, with more bite than a plain burger bun. It’s just more interesting than a burger bun. Those sop holes come in handy, because Wendy’s piles on the toppings. The Ciabatta Bacon Cheeseburger is a Messy Marvin, but sloppy is a flavor booster.

The roasted chopped tomatoes and rosemary-garlic aioli are new at Wendy’s. The chopped tomatoes are similar to bruschetta — love it. The aioli, I can lose. And if you hold the aioli, you’re lopping off 100 calories and 14 fat grams. You won’t miss it — the tomatoes and cheese provide plenty of moisture. If you need a condiment, try mustard.

The Ciabatta Bacon Cheeseburger is Wendy’s shot at the upscale (for burgers) Five Guys and Smashburger crowd. The spring greens contain nine different greens. The asiago cheese is naturally aged, the real deal. Wendy’s bacon is the bacon that drove other drive-thrus to up their game.

We’re talking a legit, big-time, quality burger here. Quality costs you. But it’s worth it.