Wendy’s is climbing aboard the pulled pork train, big time — although McDonald’s, Burger King, Subway and Carl’s Jr. are saying, “You’re late; go to the back of the train.” The rivals have one, maybe two pulled pork items … Wendy’s has three entree entries: Pulled Pork Cheeseburger, Pulled Pork Cheese Fries, and a plain ol’ Pulled Pork Sandwich.

Let’s order up a Southern-style BBQ Pulled Pork Cheeseburger, finagled for the masses, and dig in, y’all.

Here’s the blueprint: a classic Wendy’s Hot ‘N Juicy, never-frozen North American beef patty, a slice of cheddar cheese, a layer of pulled pork, crunchy broccoli cole slaw and barbecue sauce on a toasted brioche bun.

Total calories: 640. Fat grams: 33. Sodium: 1,260 mg. Dietary fiber: 2 g. Carbs: 42 g. Protein: 38 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $4.99-$5.49.

When you order pulled pork at Wendy’s, you have to run the Chinese menu gamut. First pick one from Column A: Pulled Pork Cheeseburger, Pulled Pork Cheese Fries or Pulled Pork Sandwich. Then pick your sauce from Column B: sweet, smoky or spicy. Then from Column C: dine-in or to-go.

Wendy’s pulled pork and sauces are prepared off campus, then heated up and assembled in each restaurant. So Wendy’s pulled pork doesn’t compare to the stuff at authentic barbecue joints with a 10-ton smoker out back. But Wendy’s pork is hearty and lean, with a gentle touch of seasoning. The sauces bring out the essence of the pulled pork. It’s as close to the real deal as you’ll get through a drive-thru window.

A couple of forces propelled Wendy’s pulled pork splurge. Competitors have been all about pulled pork for a couple of years now. More compelling, pork is not beef. Beef prices are sky-high and soaring higher. That’s why chains are brainstorming new chicken and pork items at a frantic pace.

For all that’s going on in the Pulled Pork Cheeseburger, it’s relatively easy on calories (640) and fat grams (33). There’s no mayonnaise, fat’s best buddy, on this sandwich.

True devotees of pulled pork sandwiches may bristle at the presence of a cheeseburger underneath the headliner and the slaw. It’s one of those things you just have to try. Who knows? If you don’t like it, just lose the burger patty; Wendy’s has a plain Pulled Pork Sandwich on the menu board.

Here’s where Wendy’s does the right thing: Pulled Pork Cheese Fries. For decades, Wendy’s has made hay, especially late at night, with Chili Cheese Fries. Pulled pork on top of natural-cut fries … certainly different. Even better.

Now we have to call in the Wendy’s research and development geniuses for a tongue-lashing, though. Sometimes you can’t see your winning hand in front of your face. What does Wendy’s have that other burger chains don’t? Baked potatoes. What makes baked potatoes irresistibly wonderful? Topping them with brisket and cheese and barbecue sauce. It’s the Southern obsession: stuffed bakers. And what did Wendy’s forget to add to its pulled pork smorgasbord? Duh!