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Drive-Thru Gourmet: Popeyes’ Beer Can Chicken misses mark on name, but not on flavor

By Ken Hoffman - | Oct 23, 2014

This week I reached out for a box of Beer Can Chicken, new from America’s No. 2 fried-chicken shack, Popeyes, with 2,262 restaurants stretching from coast to coast and way up north, north to Alaska.

Before our friends way down south, south to Texas scream, “That ain’t Beer Can Chicken!” let’s declare a disclaimer: Popeyes never should have called this “Beer Can Chicken.” It’s got absolutely nothing to do with the Southern trick of jamming a whole chicken on top of a half-full can of beer and slow-cooking the bird inside a closed grill … so the beer gets all bubbly and steamy, infusing the chicken with the flavor of brew. At least, that’s the idea. Some cooking experts point out that the beer never reaches its boiling point, so Beer Can Chicken is really more about a fun idea and good backyard conversation than actual flavor.

Here’s the Popeyes Beer Can Chicken breakdown: a chicken breast marinated in “beer can seasonings,” then battered senseless and deep-fried. Served with a biscuit, fries and a packet of new Creamy Cayenne Dipping Sauce.

Total calories: 230 (for the chicken breast). Fat grams: 14. Sodium: 350 mg. Dietary fiber: 1 g. Carbs: 14 g. Protein: 18 g. Manufacturer’s suggested retail price: $3.99.

Popeyes’ take on Beer Can Chicken doesn’t involve beer or a can — and it’s fried, not grilled. The genius running Popeyes’ Naming Rights Division needs a good talking-to about staying on point. Popeyes could have called this Chicken Cacciatore and been just as close.

Popeyes’ Beer Can Chicken starts with a chicken breast that’s cut into several “fingers,” so it looks like a baseball glove. Popeyes first used this cutting style on its Rip’n Chick’n two years ago.

The breast is marinated in “beer can seasonings” — butter, garlic, lemon zest, rosemary and cayenne pepper. You’re starting to weird me out, Popeyes.

Then, plop! Into the deep-fryer. The emerging claw is served alongside spicy Cajun fries and a big ol’ honkin’ biscuit for $3.99. It’s a good deal for a good deal of food.

The Cayenne Dipping Sauce is very strong — take heed. Dip to your comfort level, like you’re checking your car’s oil. If Popeyes had called this “Cayenne Rip’n Chicken” or “We Can’t Think of a Name Chick’n” … I would have said: “Popeyes is onto something here. This has really got a distinctive flavor. I like it.” Instead, all I’m thinking is: “What was Popeyes thinking? Come on, Popeyes, you’re better than this.” And so is this new item on your menu.

Starting at $4.32/week.

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