Lehi family’s barbecue is gaining considerable out-of-state attention
From left: Abigail, Melissa, Taylor, Michael and Fidel Astorga compete in local and regional barbecue competitions under the team name Chicken Butt BBQ. They are in Mesquite, Nev., this weekend for the Smokin’ in Mesquite BBQ Championship.
Michael Astorga observes his father prepare a cut of meat for an upcoming barbecue competition while at their home in Lehi.
“I’m kind of always working on stuff. Like a chef trying to perfect his recipes," Fidel Astorga said. "But if you ask my boys what my secret is, they’ll say, ‘Butter!’ ”
Taylor, far left, and Michael play key roles in prepping the Astorgas' award-winning barbecue, helping with the prepping, seasoning and sauces. "My kids are kind of my biggest critics," Fidel said.
“For me, if my kids don’t like it, there’s really no point in making it, because at the end of the day you end up eating it," Fidel Astorga says.
There’s a common phrase in Latter-day Saint and other religious cultures, based on a verse in 1 Corinthians: “The milk before the meat.” For Fidel and Melissa Astorga, it’s actually been the other way around.
“I was pregnant with our first and all I wanted was meat, so I just had him cook steak and meat every night for me,” Melissa recalled.
That pregnancy seven years ago became an introduction of sorts. Along with their two oldest boys — Taylor, 7, and Michael, 6 — the Astorgas have since become barbecue experts. Under the name Chicken Butt BBQ, the Astorgas’ delicious meats are gaining attention regionally, and, they hope one day, nationally. They competed in the Sam’s Club National BBQ Tour regional finals last weekend in Las Vegas. This weekend they’re back in Nevada for the Smokin’ in Mesquite BBQ Championship — a competition with $40,000 in prizes.
Will they win? The competition is tough, and they’re relative newcomers compared to many of their competitors. But their trajectory has been impressive so far.
“I think we did it a little faster than some people,” Melissa said. “Some people can’t go out of state, but we just love to travel. And it’s such a love of his, so we just tag along with him. But he just keeps getting better and better.”
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The Astorgas moved to Utah from Los Angeles to be closer to family. After hearing about Fidel’s burgeoning interest in barbecue, an acquaintance in Ogden urged him on. The friend was a barbecue enthusiast, and got Fidel to enter a local barbecue competition. Fidel fit right in, winning third place. Later on, Melissa bought him a more advanced meat smoker for Father’s Day. He’s continued to perfect his craft and win local competitions, and now serves in the Utah BBQ Association.
“It is really encouraging, especially when you’re just starting out,” Fidel said. “And the barbecue scene here in Utah is pretty helpful. There are people who are willing to help you out and point you in the right direction.”
Fidel may lead the show, but it is very much a family affair. Melissa and their two boys play integral roles, helping with the preparation, seasoning and sauces. Taylor and Michael also serve as Fidel’s taste experts. During a recent competition, one of the boys took a bite of ribs Fidel had cooked and said, “Dad, try again” while handing the ribs back.
The nature of barbecuing necessitates high volume — for these competitions, the Astorgas cook about 30 pounds of brisket, 25 pounds of pork, four slabs of ribs and 20 pieces of chicken. But the amount the judges actually eat is minimal. All those leftovers mean Fidel and Melissa’s sons’ opinions carry a lot of weight.
“My kids are kind of my biggest critics,” Fidel said. “For me, if my kids don’t like it, there’s really no point in making it, because at the end of the day you end up eating it.”
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So, what kind of barbecue do his sons like?
“A little bit sweet, with a little bit of heat at the backend,” he said. “Just a little hint of heat that hits you at the back of your throat. Not something that’s overpowering.”
This bodes well for Utah barbecue competitions, since Utah barbecue is generally a bit sweeter than the traditional salt-and-pepper Texas-style barbecue.
“He doesn’t tell me any of his secrets for any of that stuff,” Melissa joked. “He may tell his boys, but he doesn’t tell me.”
“I’m kind of always working on stuff. Like a chef trying to perfect his recipes,” Fidel countered. “But if you ask my boys what my secret is, they’ll say, ‘Butter!’ “
Competing in barbecue takes a lot of work, especially when it’s out of state. Loading the family into their 40-foot trailer that’s segmented into separate living and cooking areas, the Astorgas arrive in Nevada after a long drive, then have their meats inspected — the competition rulebooks say meat cannot be seasoned or marinated before arrival. Once everything checks out, Fidel begins prepping, usually around the midnight before the competition. Some competitors have more time-intensive cookers, others have cookers that require less constant maintenance. Regardless of the method, it’s a craft in every sense of the word.
According to Fidel, the personalities at barbecue competitions run the gamut.
“There are some people that are there just to drink beer and barbecue, and that’s all they worry about, is having a good time,” Fidel explained. “Then you have those that are very serious competitors on the national barbecue circuit.”
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The Astorgas barbecue growth is indicative of Utah’s barbecue growth. When Fidel and Melissa moved to Utah seven years ago, there were only a couple barbecue competitions statewide. Now, though, there are approximately 10 competitions, with two big ones that each have $25,000 in prizes. Some large barbecue stores have also opened up, including Snider Brothers Meats in Salt Lake City and BBQ Pit Stop in Lehi. These stores provide all the barbecue supplies, from rubs to meats to sauces, that Utahns once had to purchase out of state. The Utah barbecue scene is really cooking.
“It’s nice to know you can go out there and cook with the best of them,” Fidel said. “When you go to other regions, you see a lot more competition, and it’s nice to know you can compete with some of these big names across the country. You’re all cooking the same four things — chicken, ribs, pork and brisket — so you’re on the same level playing field as everyone else.”
To learn more about the Astorgas’ barbecue, visit facebook.com/chickenbuttbbqutah