Ruby River a gold mine in gourmet Western cuisine
A Peppered Bacon Sirloin served with a candied yam at Ruby River Steakhouse in Provo on Tuesday.
Pork Baby Back Ribs with a cinnamon yam at Ruby River Steakhouse.
A Filet Mignon with jacketed baked potato at Ruby River Steakhouse.
A Filet Mignon with jacketed baked potato at Ruby River Steakhouse.
Pork Baby Back Ribs with a cinnamon yam at Ruby River Steakhouse.
The inviting mood at the Ruby River Steakhouse in Provo floods the room with a warming anticipation of the hardy gourmet Western grub that you came for.
Modern art, folksy photos and Western regalia pieces decorate the dining area that mixes with matching softly playing music. After hearing about Ruby River’s award-winning steaks I was eager to order.
After being seated, however, I took a quick lap around the dining area and was pleased to find what seemed to be a carefully crafted atmosphere. Whether it’s a bejeweled saddle, a few taxidermy pieces or the collection of classic and bedazzling leather cowboy boots that line the walls, your visit won’t be shy of any conversation starters.
I returned to my table, which was situated next to a tall stone hearth with a quietly blazing fire. Its warmth was welcome after bearing the cold, wintry air amid my holiday comings and goings.
If you find yourself waiting to be seated, the steakhouse stocks the waiting area with tin buckets full of ballpark peanuts you can enjoy. Even arriving shortly before 5 p.m., the hostess team managed the dinner rush nicely where there was virtually no wait time to be seated.
A couple of brown glass root beer bottles sat neatly on the tabletop and had been fashioned into salt and pepper shakers. Everything about the decor of Ruby River nodded to a vintage Western country lodge — just wonderful.
I bypassed the customary appetizers and went straight to salads and entrees. Although the traditional hand-carved Browning Onion and fried pickles tempted me, I began with the raspberry craisin salad and hoped for the best.
You almost don’t need the tangy poppy seed salad dressing that comes with this dish. The pleasant tartness of a generous amount of craisins, juicy mandarin oranges and sweet candied pecans that top the romaine lettuce pretty much does the job. Fresh grated mozzarella cheese and grilled teriyaki chicken strips are tossed into the salad, turning it into an entree-sized portion.
When ordering steak entrees, know that it comes with two sides. Also know that the jacketed cinnamon yam, a baked yam deep-fried with a soft and crunchy outside, must be a first choice. For an extra $1.69, you can have it served candied-style, which I highly recommend. The soft yam is cut long ways and is stuffed with mini-marshmallows, candied pecans and cinnamon butter that taste as if you’re eating sweet potato pie — but better.
The Parmesan tomato side option is a fine choice, a whole tomato halved and served with freshly chopped basil, ground black peppercorns and melted Parmesan cheese on top. Like any true Western steakhouse, side choices also include an iceberg wedge, garlic mashed potatoes or battered french fries, among other sides.
The Steak Oscar caught my eye out of the steak herd when I saw it came topped with fresh snow crab. As I waited for the steak to arrive, I sipped off a large mug of Ruby River’s handcrafted root beer. The waitress described it as “straight from the barrel.” Its sharp, rich flavor eased into a cold sweet punch at the end — not sugary-sweet but just tastefully so.
Moments later my steak order arrived. It’s served in 6-ounce or 8-ounce portions so plan your sides accordingly depending on your hunger level. I first noticed the entree’s presentation with two baby asparagus artistically draped across the top and underneath a handful of real snow crab.
The dish was served with a house-made bearnaise sauce seasoned with herbs and a pinch of diced red and green bell peppers. After taking my first bite, the combination made me utter an involuntary, “Mmmm.” I was surprised at how many subtle flavors the chef could pack into a single mouthful.
Clearly, this is what I imagine an award-winning steak tastes like — tender, tasteful and full of surprises.
Satisfied that my experience couldn’t get any better, I dared to browse the dessert menu. Should I choose the Ruby Cookie, a plate-sized chocolate chip cookie served with ice cream drizzled with caramel? One of the raspberry crème or cheesecake brulees? The fresh apple cobbler or gourmet bread pudding?
Yes, all good things, until I saw the Rocky Mountain Mudd Pie. That “mountain” reference is no joke. This dessert could easily serve two people and up to four if they’re all polite. It’s a giant wedge of Almond Roca ice cream with a layer of peanut butter filling. An Oreo cookie crust, whipped cream, chopped nuts and drizzled caramel decorate the outside to fill out the corners of any lingering appetite.
It’s the little extras that make this Utah-based steakhouse so special. The little extras from the classy Western chalet atmosphere to the fine dining experience of carefully dressed-up menu items.
Next time you feel like a taste of casual elegance, come to Provo for a meal you’ll hate to miss.
RUBY RIVER STEAKHOUSE
Where: 1454 S. University Ave., Provo
Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun. 1-9 p.m.
Prices: Salads $11.99-$16.99, entrees $9.99-$29.99, and desserts $4.99-$6.99
Info: (801) 371-0648, rubyriver.com
