Even Stevens Sandwiches doing ‘gouda’ and delighting the senses
When I first discovered Even Stevens Sandwiches, it was the Salt Lake City location, and I forewent all the complicated and delicious-sounding menu choices for an old favorite: the Sloppy Joe.
It was embarrassing, as a grown adult, to order a food item whose name and physical appearance resembled elementary school cafeteria food. But it was so delicious, so warmly comforting, that the second and only other time I went to Even Stevens, I ordered it again.
Now the store has opened a Provo location, and when I went to review it, I was a bit crushed to discover that the Sloppy Joe has recently been removed from the menu (#BringBackJoe), but I was also glad to be forced into trying some more adventurous options.
And adventurous those options are. This is not your average sandwich shop, with side orders like Brussels sprouts and shishitos, and with sandwich names like Jackfruit Torta and Do Gouda.
I tried all of those, as well as the BLT Chopped Salad, the Party Tots and the Breakfast Burrito (breakfast, as it should be, is served all day!).
Let’s start with the Breakfast Burrito. I’m not sure there are enough words in English (or even in satisfied grunts or “mmms”) to fully capture just how good this thing is, but let me describe it: Two eggs (I ordered them medium), sausage, house sauce, cheddar cheese, tots, sriracha, spinach.
Just holding it, I could feel its power. But it was when I took a bite that I fell in absolute love. That thing is the breakfast burrito to end all breakfast burritos.
Nothing else that I tried grabbed me quite as much. The salad was what you would expect, as were the sprouts. The shishitos — a kind of green peppers with dipping sauce — underwhelmed me a bit after the magnificent miracle that was the burrito, as did the Jackfruit Torta sandwhich, whose sweet and meaty flavors didn’t go together as well as I hoped.
But the tots — which we got in the “Party” variety (more toppings!) — were delicious and fun. (This place really shines when it leans into its cafeteria roots, I guess.)
The Do Gouda sandwich has shaved New York steak, smoked gouda cheese and a handful of flavorings on sourdough. It was quite delicious.
And speaking of “Doing Gouda,” the company itself is engaged in what I think is a tasty treat of its own: That is, it partners with local non-profits to actually do good in a tangible way in the community.
Right in the menu, the four-step process is described: “1. You buy a sandwich. 2. We produce sandwich ingredients for our non-profit partners. 3. Our partners order the ingredients they need, and their staff and volunteers rally to make sandwiches. 4. Individuals in need are fed, and our partners reallocate funds toward their unique and life-changing programs.”
Those programs include the Community Action Services and Food Bank in Provo, Tabitha’s Way Local Food Pantry, Utah Valley Family Support & Treatment Center and the Food & Care Coalition.
Nice to have a meal that satisfies in more ways than one.
EVEN STEVENS
Where: 1280 N. University Ave., Provo
Prices: $1.95-$8.95
Hours: Monday through Saturday 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Info: (801) 477-6077, evenstevens.com



