Black Sheep Cafe goes to extra lengths to marry quality with tradition
A beef enchilada entree available at Black Sheep Cafe.
A beef enchilada entree available at Black Sheep Cafe.
A beef enchilada entree available at Black Sheep Cafe.
Pork jowl tacos available at Black Sheep Cafe.
Pork jowl tacos available at Black Sheep Cafe.
Filet mignon bruschetta available at Black Sheep Cafe.
Cactus pear lemonade at Black Sheep Cafe.
From our window on University Avenue in Provo, we can easily see the Black Sheep Cafe and on hungrier days, we gawk insatiably.
I’d been waiting for an opportunity to visit this establishment of Provo dining, and thankfully, my turn in the dining review rotation, combined with some work-related celebrations, made for a perfect night at the sensationally savory Southwestern restaurant.
The Black Sheep Cafe opened a little more than five years ago and instantly became a hit. Reservations are practically a must, though we lucked out when a couple canceled their reservation right before my wife and I planned to head to dinner.
The restaurant has a prominent modern aesthetic. Interpretive art adorns the eatery’s walls and Edison bulbs hang on single strands from the ceiling. It fits in well with the other modern and contemporary dining options around downtown Provo.
We were seated promptly and the waitress was extremely attentive to walking us through the menu and sharing her preferences. I know Black Sheep Cafe is renowned for its Navajo Tacos, but I’m not a particular fan of frybread. Reminds me of funnel cakes and overcrowded county fairs.
While deciding on our entrees, we were recommended to enjoy the filet mignon bruschetta. It sounded a bit odd to have filet mignon on bruschetta, but with its specialty in Southwestern fusion cuisine, I felt such a combination couldn’t go wrong at Black Sheep Cafe.
The filet mignon was emulsified and was practically a savory paste on the crispy Pueblo bread. Savory notes of cilantro, fresh cotija cheese and slight notes of fresh pico de gallo blended perfectly atop the lavish meat spread.
Now, I don’t commonly review drinks, since many restaurants serve your typical Coke or, heaven forbid, Pepsi products. But Black Sheep Cafe has a reputation for its Cactus Pear Lemonade. After ordering a glass, it was easy to see why. The tart lemon combined with the sweet cactus pear taste for a refreshment I frankly don’t think could be emulated elsewhere.
For our entrees, my wife ordered a serving of beef enchiladas while I, at the server’s recommendation ordered the pork jowl tacos.
You read that right — pork jowl. Pork shoulder or even pork butt is more common in pulled pork recipes, but pork jowl may be the treasured secret to perfect pulled pork. Pork jowl is, as you may assume, from the inside of the pork cheek and is a fattier cut of meat. Makes me thinks of all the times my great-aunt pinched my “chubby cheeks” as a kid.
All that fat (on the pig, not me), gives pork jowl a creamy, smooth texture, which makes it probably the tenderest pork I’ve ever had. Black Sheep Cafe’s pork jowl gives off a smoky yet spicy flavor, with typical notes of cilantro and other common Southwest spices throughout every bite.
My wife’s beef enchiladas were also extremely satisfying, with similarly tender beef and smooth, melty cheese. The olives atop the entire plate gave a nice bitter taste to complement the red enchilada sauce pooling in the plate.
It’s typical of Southwestern and Mexican cuisine for a side of common rice and beans to be served with many meals. I lived with a Mexican family on my mission in Seattle who commonly fed us, and we could practically predict dinner after a while — meat, beans and cheese. This can be rote pretty easily, but not at Black Sheep Cafe. It shows true attention to detail when even the refried beans, which were delicately topped with cheese and cream, were some of the best I’ve had. The rice had an excellent citrus taste, likely from lime, that again, exhibited a true culinary understanding by Black Sheep Cafe’s chefs and cook staff.
My only regret was not having the opportunity to sample more of the cafe’s menu. I guess that’s why I’m glad they’re just across the street.
Black Sheep Cafe offers exquisite Southwestern and Mexican cuisine, with unique takes on tacos, enchiladas, burgers and other unique palate pleasers sure to leave you satisfied. And with a warm, welcoming staff, you won’t feel like the black sheep in this cafe.
BLACK SHEEP CAFE
Where: 19 N. University Ave., Provo
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5-9 p.m., Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m., Friday; noon to 3 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.
Cost: $6-$22.
Info: (801) 607-2485, blacksheepcafe.com