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TRUreligion in Orem merges history, heritage and hope with deeply delicious dishes

By Kari Kenner daily Herald - | Jan 23, 2019
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The Monte Cristo, Petite Sirloin and a Biscuit at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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The Monte Cristo with hash browns and raspberry preserves at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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Petite Sirloin with hash browns, eggs and a biscuit at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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Sage Sausage is served with eggs, hash browns and pancakes at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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Chicken and Waffles at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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Petite Sirloin with hash browns and eggs at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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The Monte Cristo with hash browns and raspberry preserves at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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Chocolate Chip Pancakes at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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A vintage telephone box holds coloring sheets and crayons at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse in Orem.

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Jim Leany, an owner manager at Tru Religion, poses for a portrait at the restaurant on Tuesday, Nov. 27, 2018, in Orem.

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Jim Leany, left, Jordan Herkimer, center, and Crystal Stokes, right, the three are owner managers at Tru Religion, pose for a portrait at the restaurant on Tuesday, Nov. 27, 2018, in Orem.

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Jim Leany, an owner manager at TRUreligion, poses for a portrait in front of the original paneling from Lamb's Grill ice box at the new TRUreligion restaurant on Tuesday, Nov. 27, 2018, in Orem.

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Jim Leany, an owner manager at TRUreligion, poses for a portrait at the restaurant on Tuesday, Nov. 27, 2018, in Orem.

There are a variety of reasons that lead me to new restaurants. Sometimes it’s cravings, sometimes recommendations, other times I just happen to be in the area.

Occasionally I’ll scope out new sites via Google and now and again, silly as it sounds, I can’t help but feel it’s fate that leads me there.

It was a handful of those factors were responsible for my recent visit to TRUreligion in Orem. My crew was hungry and we were driving down State Street in Orem when we saw a sign that boasted both pancakes AND steak. What?! A quick online search showed me the restaurant was a recent addition to Midtown 360 and, as I explored the interior and took my first few bites of the food, I knew it was really fate that led to our encounter. How could something that good not be fate?

Despite the fact TRUreligion just opened in late November, stepping inside is like experiencing the past firsthand, with furnishings and woodwork taken from the former Lamb’s Grill, a staple restaurant in Salt Lake City from 1919 to 2017. The pieces were purchased by Jim Leany, who explained his passion for the historical accoutrements in a recent Daily Herald business article.

“Everything is disposable in America. This is not disposable. This is Art Deco — this stuff doesn’t exist anymore,” Leany said. “We can’t throw away our history because our history defines us.”

The furnishings are classic and exquisite with booths still boasting their original coat and hat hooks and chandeliers hanging from the ceiling.

Though this may seem a silly thing to mention in an article on dining, one of the highlights of my visit to TRUreligion was a trip to the ladies room, where repurposed swinging kitchen doors from Lamb’s Grill lead to more Art Deco-inspired design, floor to ceiling stall doors, beautiful tile and lighting, and even an antique crank bell on the stall to check vacancy.

The view upon entering the restaurant is both classy and breathtaking, with the waiting area offering a glimpse into the past through layout, art, décor and old news clippings. The Art Deco theme is incredible and seamless, with an old telephone booth hosting color pages and crayons for the littles and solidly built tables blending with trim, accents and drop textured ceiling tiles to create an experience that was somehow both elegant and casual. It wasn’t hard to feel like we belonged at TRUreligion, and we all marveled at the interior as we were led to our seats and our first real challenge – deciding on what to eat.

TRUreligion is exactly what it advertises to be: a pancake and steakhouse born from three generations of restaurateurs. Among those is “Grandma Glena,” noted on the site for her famous fried chicken, and after having tried the chicken and waffles, I couldn’t agree more. The chicken was crisp on the outside, and tender, juicy and flavorful inside, drawing a wide-eyed look of wonder upon first bite. Sweet and understated, the waffle was a perfect pairing.

My personal dish was the Monte Cristo, described in the menu as “Beautiful French brioche sliced an inch thick then layered with shaved ham and Cache Valley open-eye swiss cheese. Battered and grilled then stacked on a platter. Garnished with raspberry preserves and a side of hash browns. You’ll think you’ve died and gone to heaven!”

It sure felt like it on first bite as I encountered layer after layer of flavor tinged with the sweet berry flavor of the preserves. I had to fight my kids over who got to eat the sandwich, and the hash browns were tender but just crisp enough that I generously finished my friend’s portion as well.

She settled on the Mega-link Sage Sausage which, crafted in house, came finished in parchment and with the deepest of flavors. It was made better by expertly cooked eggs and buttermilk pancakes that were so fluffy, sweet and plentiful we ended up taking some home and having them for breakfast the next morning.

When they weren’t eating my meal, the kids enjoyed the rich, chocolatey flavor of the Chocolate Chip Pancakes they ordered, because if you’re going to do breakfast for dinner, you might as well enjoy it! They were just the right amount of sweet, complemented by fresh whipped cream, chocolate shavings and chocolate syrup.

Finally, we had the Petite Sirloin, which my husband jealously guarded. Tapping into the steakhouse descriptor of the restaurant, the meat was fresh, tender and perfectly cooked, though he opted to add a little seasoning to bring out the savory flavors.

It came with scrambled eggs and the selection of a “cat’s head biscuit” which he ordered mostly out of curiosity. Yes, it was indeed the large size of a cat’s head, but better than that, it was dense, buttery goodness complete with honey and butter.

For variety, we also enjoyed a house cinnamon roll, which was massive and delicious, though I almost wish the sweet frosting carried down into the cinnamon-y layers.

As a random aside, another unique draw for TRUreligion comes from its name, and what that means business-wise for the restaurant.

In his interview with the Daily Herald, Leany said, “Tru service is Tru religion. If you strive to be in service to your fellow man, that’s true religion.”

That includes not only natural, locally sourced ingredients and great service, but the “Second Chances” program. TRUreligion invites guests to round their checks to the nearest dollar with 100 percent of contributions to be used to give individuals in the community a second chance, providing housing, employment and a career path.

Our visit was enlightening to say the least, not to mention delicious, and a chance to spend quality time with dear friends.

“I want people to know they can escape here,” Leany said in regard to the restaurant,” and that sentiment couldn’t have been truer.

TRURELIGION PANCAKE AND STEAKHOUSE

What: A pancake and steakhouse just opened in Orem.

Where: 360 S. State St., Orem

Hours: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to “Late Late Late” Friday and Saturday, closed Sunday.

Cost: Entrees $6.50 to $15 with sides and drinks $2-$10.

Info: (801) 705-4425, trureligionpancakeandsteakhouse.com

Starting at $4.32/week.

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