As I lay in camp on my sleeping pad, staring up at the vapor trails of passing aircraft between the trees, I reached a level of contentment I hadn’t felt in some time. Far from the worries of daily life, I’d managed to escape to Zion National Park for the weekend. And far from the masses of crowds in the park, I’d managed to escape to the peace and quiet of the West Rim Trail high above it all.

My wife, Britnee, father David and I had planned for the trip well in advance to beat the rush. Usually this trail books up quickly, (as do other favorites in the park), once permits are made available three months in advance. Having already visited the East Rim and Cable Mountain in Zion a couple of times, this was my first time hiking from Lava Point to The Grotto on the west side.

I had always wondered how the two sides differed and why the West Rim was always booked up while, on the other side, you could easily walk in and get East Rim permits throughout the year. Now my questions were all being answered.

The trails looked similar at first — hiking through pine trees high on the plateau. However the difference became obvious when incredible views began dropping away to the west as the West Rim Trail followed closely along the canyon rim.

Our hike on the first day was, what I thought would be, a relatively easy 6 miles of the 14.5-mile total. As it turned out, there were a couple of steep climbs to be made along the way and my pack wasn’t as light as I thought it would be, (having left my hammock and other luxuries locked in the car).

At the end of the second climb we reached our camp, number six of nine developed sites along the trail, which turned out to be a perfect, shaded spot to stop. With time to relax that evening I found myself missing those luxuries left behind, especially the hammock and maybe some ibuprofen.

The view from our camp that evening was incredible. The view from the trail the following morning was even more so. Early morning sun shone on green-capped, sandstone towers rising above deep, dark canyons and stops for photographs were plentiful.

Before long we reached Cabin Spring and, after a quick stop to fill up our water, began our steep descent into a rapidly changing landscape. In the last 4.7 miles of the trail we descended 2,500 feet from the cooler high country into Zion Canyon below. Some of that trek along an incredibly exposed portion of trail cut into a steep cliff face with stunning views around each switchback turn.

Finally catching our first glimpse of Angels Landing, we knew we were reaching the end of the peace and quiet we had been enjoying. As a friend Bill put it, “Once you hit Scout Lookout, the magic fades.”

Here we were greeted by the strong stink of two toilets built on the trail and crowds of day hikers debating the last half mile of the Angels Landing hike.

Dropping our packs, my wife and I hustled up the spine of Angels Landing while my dad took a break in the shade. After that it was one last, hot hour of hiking down Walter’s Wiggles and Refrigerator Canyon to the refreshing water of the Virgin River below.

Despite my own suffering with a sore hip on day two, the West Rim Trail is a relatively mellow overnight trip, (or long day hike), which is mostly downhill with endless, jaw-dropping views.

Without a doubt one of the best hikes I’ve ever been on and one I’d be happy to revisit in the future. That chance might come in September when a coworker and I attempt the Zion Traverse, but there is a lot of training to do before then.