They’re not wrong. Even after visiting over a rainy weekend, I’m delighted to report that the rumors are true. Despite its steely, industrial, Rust belt past, The ‘Burgh’s cozy skyscrapers, green rolling hills, and 400 bridges crossing its three scenic rivers are downright charming. If that weren’t enough, so are its original food, historic institutions, gritty but clean streets, and grizzled but kind locals.

Don’t believe me? Here’s what to know before reveling in revitalized Pittsburgh:

Dramatic entrance

I knew Pittsburgh was underrated within seconds of arriving. To get there from the airport, you drive under Mount Washington through the Fort Pitt Tunnel and … bam! You’re hit with one of the most cinematic tunnel views this side of Yosemite. Captivating yellow suspension bridges criss-crossing three rivers at nearly every other street. Compact, if not cozy, skyscrapers that never feel overbearing. Panoramic hills on all four sides.

There is some visual scarring of a past well lived, mind you. But everyone loves a comeback story. And that’s what Pittsburgh is. After transitioning from an industrial town into the innovative healthcare, robotics, and higher-educated city it is today, Pittsburgh cleaned up nicely without denying its roots. I’m smitten by this place — its historic “Mister Roger’s” neighborhoods and stunning setting.

Whatever you call it–City of Bridges, City of Champions (given its pro sports dominance), or City of Rivers–Pittsburgh demands your attention.

Best things to do

For a bird’s eye view of the picturesque skyline and bridges, start your visit with a ride up the historic Duquesne (“doo-kane”) Incline to Mount Washington, which is really a 1,000 foot hill. But it’s also the most iconic view of the entire city, and you can walk along the appropriately-named Grandview Boulevard to several scenic overlooks, postcard perfect photos, and “some of the prettiest homes I’ve ever seen,” says my delighted wife.

The good looks don’t stop there. Point State Park at the confluence of Pittsburgh’s three rivers is wonderful. So is the Three Rivers Trail on both the north and south sides, where the highest concentration of truly “golden” gate bridges suspend over the horizon, one after another. You’ll never see anything like it.

Along the river trail, you can easily access some of the city’s greatest institutions: Acrisure Stadium (home of the Steelers) and PNC Park (home of the Pirates), which are clearly two of the most comely stadiums in America. For history and art buffs, there’s also the Heinz Center and Andy Warhol Museum. Or you can enjoy the splendid Strip District, riverfront benches, and other historic buildings. Either way, you’re sure to enjoy copious amounts of black and gold cheering you on.

Pro Tip: Stay in downtown for walkable access to the best of everything, from sightseeing to river walks and museums to restaurants.

Best original food

Although not well-known for its working class cuisine, Pittsburgh is home to a half dozen original dishes you should definitely try while visiting. All of them are fun, affordable, and more than half are worth writing home about.

My favorite? Pittsburgh Salad from Bigham Tavern topped with fries and honey mustard. It sounds weird, but it slaps. So does the famous Primanti Brothers pastrami and cheese sandwich stacked with coleslaw, tomatoes, and even fries, which steel workers asked for between the bread, because they didn’t have time for sides.

Other standout foods include Pamela’s thin and crispy crepe pancakes — so good you don’t even need syrup (but can if you want) — S&D Deli for the “best pierogis and haluski in Pittsburgh,” and Prantl’s decadent Burnt Almond Torte, which one food critic called, “The greatest cake America has ever made.”

They’re not wrong either. Gritty, reinvented, and underrated Pittsburgh deserves all the accolades and praise it can get. Don’t be fooled by any misconceptions. This town is totally worth your time, especially with nonstop flights from Salt Lake.

Blake Snow contributes to fancy publications and Fortune 500 companies as a bodacious writer-for-hire and seasoned travel journalist to all seven continents. He lives in Provo, Utah with his wife, five children, and one ferocious chihuahua.