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Denny’s new sundae misses the mark

By Ken Hoffman - | Apr 21, 2011

This week I reached out for a — let’s not judge too quickly — Maple Bacon Sundae, part of the “Baconalia” Celebration of Bacon at America’s 24-hour diner, Denny’s, with about 2,000 restaurants in all 50 states and around the world.

A sundae — as in “ice-cream sundae” — with bacon? What some restaurant chains will do for attention, huh? But I was certain that KFC introduced the Double Down, its fried-chicken sandwich with two pieces of chicken and no bread, as a publicity stunt, and the thing caught on. So let it be with the Maple Bacon Sundae. Not so fast, Caesar.

Here’s the blueprint: Take a traditional sundae glass, squirt in some maple-flavored syrup, then add two scoops of vanilla ice cream, toss on crumbled bacon, then more syrup and more bacon, and you’ve got an ice-cream sundae with bacon.

You might like it. Personally, my ice-cream sundae needs have been met with hot fudge and walnuts, but bacon could be your thing.

Nutritional information: Denny’s usually is pretty good at releasing facts and figures but not this time. But figure about 810 calories and 40 fat grams. Denny’s IS saying how much the Maple Bacon Sundae costs — $2.99

First hurdle: meat, particularly pork, in a dessert. Bacon isn’t the leanest cut of meat — it’s not a boneless, skinless chicken breast, thank goodness — but it is one of the great flavors on the American menu. I’m not a big chicken-salad-sandwich fan, but add a couple strips of bacon, and I’ll have that on white toast, please.

There isn’t an omelet that’s not tastier with bacon. Pancakes are better with bacon on the side. Or, during Denny’s Baconalia Celebration, pancakes come with crumbled bacon in the batter. Now, that’s an idea that’s been waiting to happen forever.

Other bacon specials at Denny’s include: Triple Bacon Sampler, BBBLT Sandwich (I’ll be back for that), Ultimate Bacon Sampler, Pepper Bacon with Eggs and a Bacon Meatloaf (that’s a little scary).

OK, let’s dig into our Maple Bacon Sundae. Does maple-flavored syrup, or “pancake syrup” to avoid a fistfight in Vermont, succeed as an ice-cream topping? It’s rich and sweet and thick and like candy, but with Hershey’s syrup and strawberries and bananas and nuts and crumbled Oreos in full supply, was there a need to send out a search party for more ice-cream toppings? Especially a risky one like pancake syrup, which is one step from breakfast, where bacon lives?

Denny’s uses a supermarket-quality vanilla ice cream — it’s fine, but it won’t rock you like Ben & Jerry’s or Blue Bell or Haagen-Dazs. Then that first crunch of bacon hits you, all shmeared with pancake syrup and ice cream, and it’s: “Whoa, what’s that? It’s bacon … AND IT’S ON MY SUNDAE! I needed more fat on my ice cream?”

Get over it, and move on. Bacon on ice cream, while I’m a sucker for publicity stunts and silly food, just didn’t click with me. There was no need for this. It’s not a breakthrough or an improvement on anything.

The BBBLT sounds like a much, much, much better idea. You can’t get enough B on a BLT, and nobody’s going to say, “What’s this bacon doing on my bacon sandwich?”

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