Maple Canyon is quite an amazing place to go rock climbing. At first it doesn’t appear to be that great of a place to climb and it is hard to imagine that this desert place could be such a climbing Mecca. Many people have said that they don’t trust the rock or the protection provided in this canyon. But people can rest assured, the holds are there and the climbing is excellent.

Be sure to bring a helmet for the belayer because routes less traveled tend to have more rock fall. Belaying the climbing partner from an angle that will protect a person is recommended.

Here the routes are ranged from 5.6 to 5.14 and are very consistent. Most climbs in this canyon have an easy couple of moves at first. But don’t think that the climb is going to be easy. Most routes are consistently hard and leave a climber wondering where the spot is to rest. There aren’t too many rest spots on any of the climbs they are very consistent and very hard. The rating wasn’t determined by one or two hard spots. When the climbers who bolted most of American Fork Canyon needed a new place to challenge their abilities, they looked to Maple Canyon.

There is a small campground that is within walking distance of almost all of the climbs. But small is the key word. Do Not expect to find an open campsite if arriving on a Friday. The road above the campground is only recommended for four-wheel drive vehicles, so most visitors will not be able to go further up the canyon to camp.

All the property at the mouth of the canyon is private property and is closed to camping and climbing. So plan ahead and show up on a Tuesday or Wednesday to get the better camping spots. There is a small fee to camp and the new restrooms are great compared to the outhouse that was previously there.

Haji Rock

Haji Rock is the boulder that sits on top of the wall North of the Pipe Dream Cave. Start on the east side of the wall left of a dihedral/water course. Pitch 1: Climb an easy arete to a steeper more technical section above. The arete eventually turns into a tower. 90′ Pitch 2: Stem or “fall” (exciting!) across “The Gap of Flatulence.” Clip a bolt, then climb up and left onto the ridgeline.

Move right around the boulder and belay (opposite the side the route was started on). There is an awesome ledge here to relax on, called “Camp Blessing.” 30′. Pitch 3: Ascend four bolts to the summit. Move north and down slightly to the far northeast corner of the boulder and belay.

Sign the summit register. Descent: Rappel from anchors on the northeast corner to the top of the pillar on Pitch 1, then rappel Pitch 1.