Granted I don’t claim to have figured it all out. But after visiting the capital of this massive and ancient land — one the oldest on Earth — I’m finally beginning to grasp it.

First, the grandeur here is astounding. It is the only country that rivals American infrastructure, technology, scale, money and thinking. Beijing is bigger, better, kinder, safer, faster, cleaner, more digital and surprisingly newer than I ever expected.

I wouldn’t fault any skeptical readers for doubting me. But I hope the following can challenge your thinking about this cornerstone civilization that has endured, adapted and survived for longer than anyone else.

1. Set up apps before you land.

Many Western “apps” such as Google, Uber, ChatGPT, credit cards and even seated toilettes don’t work well (or at all) in China. To navigate this strange and foreign land, you’ll need to download and sometimes wrestle with the following: Alipay for cashless everything, Apple Maps and Apple Translate (or similar) for getting around, WeChat for messaging (and backup payments), Didi for easy and affordable ride sharing and squatting “toilets” for relieving yourself on the go.

For entry, my wife and I used China’s 10-day, Visa-free transit, which requires flying into a third country — either before or after your visit — before returning home. Furthermore, privacy apps such as VPNs are unreliable for side-skirting Chinese censorship. But thankfully most eSIMs purchased before landing are routed through Hong Kong and not subject to blocking. So with any luck you might be able to use Western apps with some success.

2. Accept yin and yang.

It’s telling that the most populated country (and second biggest economy) in the world still doesn’t have drinkable tap water. Not even their capital does. Let that sink in. While clearly moving towards the future, China is also stuck in a past many of us left over a century ago.

That said, its subways, bullet trains and other public infrastructure are world-class. So is its massive, ornate and ancient imperial architecture. As for the more recent, drab and dystopian-looking communist buildings? Not so much. But the even more recent towering skyscrapers are as impressive as anything you’ll see in Chicago or rapidly emerging Asia. While I wouldn’t call this surveillance state “relaxed,” I wouldn’t call it draconian or “on edge.” It is new and old. Yin and yang. Still figuring out what it wants to be when it grows up. Amid all of that, I felt more politically safe, welcomed and respected than I expected.

3. Book major attractions in advance.

The above opposites are a big reason why Beijing is one of the most profound places I’ve ever endeavored. But top sites often require reservations: the magnificent Forbidden City, the sprawling but eerie Tiananmen Square, the soaring Temple of Heaven and the reason I came: The Great Wall of China.

My wife and I hiked two stunning sections of this world wonder — the nearby Mutianyu and the more secluded Jinshanling sections. Stepping foot on both was an immense honor; on par with seeing and touching The Great Pyramids. Well worth traveling half way around the planet for. So was the inviting Qianmen Street, zen of Jingshan and Beihai parks and even everyday attractions such as grocery and continent stores, residential alleys called “hutongs,” and those regal red lanterns hanging everywhere.

4. Understand the downsides.

Louder, more tech savvy and grander than Japan (not as adorable or as calming though). Bigger than D.C. That’s Beijing. The smog can be off-putting, as are the daily passport checks for attractions, tickets and security. And while fun to try, Beijing’s famous foods such as Peking duck, saucy noodles, bean buns and steamed dumplings are just okay. Their desserts such as donkey rolls, sugared fruit skewers and white rabbit candy didn’t leave me craving for more.

The crowds and mainland Asia’s disdain for courteous queues can also be taxing. My wife never got used to the squatting toilets. Having your passport checked so frequently seriously makes you think you’re being watched, which according to the countless security cameras, you clearly are. But if you visit with noble intentions, I can’t imagine any problems. Again, I felt 99% safe and even admired by the locals, way more than I did in Hong Kong even.

5. Hybrid communism is better than not.

Nothing lifts humanity out of suffering and poverty better than representative democracy and regulated capitalism. I believe that. And I won’t apologize for the ruling communists who half bought into that idea a few decades ago after allowing Chinese citizens to enrich themselves (and state coffers) with the superior money-making abilities of capitalism. Mix it all up and you have a tourism experience that’s rewarding and beguiling. A bizarre but still brilliant place.

On the morning my wife and I left Beijing, we were greeted with clear skies and a big imperial sunrise, as well as warm goodbyes from the hotel staff. I never thought I would say this, but I already miss China. And I have every intention of returning with my kids someday to this special, highly influential and surreal society.

Blake Snow contributes to fancy publications and Fortune 500 companies as a bodacious writer-for-hire and seasoned travel journalist to all seven continents. He lives in Provo, Utah with his wife, five children, and one ferocious chihuahua.